Log Date: December 29, 2004

Location: San Blas Islands (NE of Panama)

The San Blas Islands are about 150 miles Northeast of Colon, Panama. There are about 350 islands surrounded by reefs and inhabited by the Kunan Indians. It was a wonderful four and a half day sail from Jamaica. 

This morning three Kunan women paddling an ULU (dug out canoe), selling Molas, stopped by the boat.  They said they didn't speak English but I think that they know more then they let on. Susan says I am cynical - and I suppose I am.

Note: A Mola is an appliqué of layering and sewing bright color fabric that makes a picture – traditionally a woman wears these in pairs on the front and back of their pheasant shirts. 

They were relentless in their selling technique - throwing Mola after Mola on the boat.  "This one, this one, senora, this one, pretty, mucho trabajo" (much work - intricate sewing).  The older women were wearing very colorful clothing and wore beads up and down their legs and arms as well as a lot of gold jewelry.  I think they all had a gold nose ring. 

Little did we know that this was only round one - we had two other Ulus arrive later in the day.  We got better at saying "no" but still have gone way over budget and own too many Molas!  We also bought a couple of beaded bracelets that they all wore. 

When one of the women in the Ulu started pulling out post cards and "junk" that you would find in a ticky-tacky gift store - I had enough.  They were trying to sell these items as their own - it was quite disheartening that "everyone is just out to make a buck".  We saw that in Jamaica as well. I asked to take a picture of one of the Kunan women and she says "one dollar". 

Everyone also asked for bon bons, I didn't understand what they were asking then I said "chocolate" they nodded their heads yes. The first day I gave out most of my chocolate – look out when I get PMS! 

Later in the day the men arrived selling lobster and crabs.  These are huge (no-claw) lobsters and crabs like "king crab".  We ended up with two lobsters and sautéed them in garlic butter over pasta.  Of course, we negotiated a good price and then found out they didn't have change and we only had large bills.  We gave them $20.00 and they just left with our change. I hollered to them what about our change and they just said “no change” and therefore being paid way too much - again.  Moral of the story - always have lots of small bills. 

At 9 degrees Latitude - we try to stay out of the sun, but our skin is browning quickly. Tomorrow we up anchor and run from the Mola women and will head up to a "deserted" island to rest from our busy shopping day.

Enjoying Life Onboard.

Laura and Susan

SV Mystic Traveler