Log Date: January 19, 2005
Location: San Blas Islands
We
are now anchored at the "Swimming Pool" in East Holandes, San Blas
Islands. This is the first anchorage with a white sandy bottom and
crystal clear blue water.
We can see almost 25'
down.
Although warm,
the wind has been blowing at a good clip so we are kept cool.
The Kuna Indians live in such poverty by American standards. Susan and I will never get over seeing how this part of the world lives. Think about it - we are only about 60 miles as the "crow-flies" to Colon, Panama a major city. Imagine sleeping in a thatched hut on the ground/hammock - with no running water - few clothes - no car - no refrigerator - no stove - no computer, email or Internet. Then in the AM instead of stepping into your nice warm shower you have to paddle your "ULU" (dug-out canoe) up the river to bathe, wash clothes and cart water back to your hut. Such a contrast to American way of life - that's for sure.
"Frederico with Yacht Services" greeted us when we arrived in Nargana. He points to a hut on shore with a blue tarp and says that is my home and office. He asks if we need anything - we tell him "no" and off he goes. Later he comes paddling back to our boat with the island chief to greet us. We are asked to pay $8 to visit their island. They give us a receipt and tell us that payment is good for 30 days and then we would have to pay again. In case you were wondering, the chief was dressed in shorts, t-shirt and baseball cap. He was formally a policeman and retired to become village chief. Approx 1800 people live on this little island. Many speak some Spanish, but mostly they speak Kunan.
Frederico meets us at the dock and we are surprised when I stand next to him that he comes only to my shoulders – I am only 5’4”. The Kunans are extremely short people. We felt tall for once in our lives.
The bread store has one type of bread and it is not "sandwich" bread but more like large bread sticks and somewhat sweet (very good). We got 10 "loaves/sticks" for $.50
Frederico's
Compound - It is surrounded by a 6' high barricade that is narrow bamboo
hand tied closely together. There is a small opening to walk
through and at least two structures (a sleeping/living hut and a cooking
hut inside the fence. We see laundry hanging alongside the house.
His home is actually constructed of wood, but I still wouldn't call it
much more than a hut. There
are about 5 kids hanging out around front. Inside (no door) there are
about 10 more kids watching TV/cartoons and a few more just milling
around. A 20" color TV is in the corner of the room and there are 2
regular size plastic stacking chairs and 5 or so child size plastic chairs - this is it. The hut is built right on the ground so
there is a hard packed dirt floor. This room is probably 6' x 10'.
Off to the left is a small room just barely large enough to have a small child size twin bed (off the ground). There was another room about the same size. We then walked farther into the hut and there was a larger room that was half laundry area and other half had a double bed and dresser with a curtain dividing the two sections. There was a woman doing laundry and cloths hanging everywhere and children and cats milling around and everyone was talking in Kunan.
On the bed his 4-year-old son was sleeping soundly. Frederico tells us that his son was very sick when he was young and spent much time in the hospital. He pulls back the covers and I am not certain if the child was burned or missing his legs. Then Frederico points to a wheel chair the child uses. A very, very sad picture.
He shows us his back yard that has garbage bags in it that he has collected (for a price) from the boats in the harbor. He said he would come for our garbage tomorrow. Garbage is always a problem to store and/or get rid of. There is a spigot in the ground for fresh water and many plastic jugs for carrying water. His home abuts the water, as do most of the homes on the island. There is a dock from the back door of the hut, which leads to an enclosure (4x4' maybe) that has metal sheeting as walls. Now I did not ask to go inside but I know this is their "outhouse" which is only a hole over the water. We are not swimming or eating lobster from this anchorage!
Be grateful for what you have - we certainly are.
Enjoying Life Onboard.
Laura and Susan
SV Mystic Traveler